If you’re planning a trip to Turkey, you must include Cappadocia, the" Land of Fairy Chimneys" in your plans. Not only is the above-the-ground landscape fascinating, this region boasts many underground cities, truly unique below-the-ground dwelling complexes dating back thousands of years. Many of these underground cities are open to the public, and draw thousands of curious tourists each year. But is descending several storeys underground into ancient earth-encased caverns a good idea for you if you have health concerns?
Derinkuyu and Kaymakli, Popular Underground Cities
The whole region of Cappadocia, Turkey, has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Over forty underground cities have been discovered there, dating back about 4000 years. Carved out of the volcanic rock, these complexes range in size from village to city. Used as places of refuge over and over again, they contain bedchambers, wine cellars, horse stables, and cemeteries.
The most popular of these underground cities are Derinkuyu, the deepest, and Kaymakli, the widest, both open year-round and easily reached in the main tourist area of Cappadocia. These complexes, although completely under the earth, are well-lit, with good signage in English, and have features such as safety rails and grilles to protect the adventurous.
These Tourist Sites not Barrier-Free
Although thousands of tourists of all ages visit the underground cities each year, they are best suited to the agile and fit. Unfortunately, it would be virtually impossible to make accommodations here for those in wheelchairs due to the nature and extent of these sites. To enter the underground city there is an initial descent of a flight of stairs, and from there things get more challenging: the tunnels are too narrow and sometimes too steep, the ground too uneven for a wheelchair.
But if you have a more moderate physical handicap, or perhaps mild claustrophobia or a respiratory condition, a visit can be manageable. You might find that with care and some planning, you’ll be able to see at least a bit of the upper storeys. To tour these underground cities is a personal decision that only you can make. To do that, you need to learn more about the physical layout and atmosphere of these ancient places..
Low Tunnels Lead Back in Time
The underground cities consist of many chambers and alcoves, connected by archways and tunnels. These tunnels sometimes descend a storey at a time, either by means of a sloping path or by stairs — most often winding. Some are of modest height, but others require that you bend almost double — these are thankfully not very long. It is here that those with claustrophobic tendencies might encounter difficulties. It’s not unknown for a panicky visitor to suddenly change their mind and virtually run back to the surface, squeezing past the tourists on their way down the same tunnel.
If you have arthritic problems but are still mobile, walking around an underground city is certainly possible. But take note that certain access tunnels require you bend at the waist. You would be best advised to limit your visit to the first two storeys or so. Remember that every foot you descend must be ascended again to get back to the surface. There’s still much of interest to see in the upper storeys; in fact, studying the rooms and alcoves in detail might be more satisfying than scurrying through several lower storeys more hurriedly.
Ventilation Shafts and a Change in Atmosphere
As you descend deeper into the earth you’ll appreciate more the engineering skills necessary to create these underground cities. There are ventilation shafts in many places extending from the surface down through several storeys. Despite those, you might be aware of a heavy, earthy atmosphere in the lower floors, as though you were encased in a giant potato bin. Earth odors can be cloying and anyone with respiratory problems will be aware of the change in air.
In the warren of underground caverns, vestibules, and tunnels, it’s easy to become disoriented. Follow the arrows when in doubt as they will point you to the next chamber. Exit arrows will show you the way out. If you have a map of the complex, it would be wise to plot your course — knowing your exact position can be reassuring.
Still Want to Visit a Cappadocian Underground City?
If despite health problems, you decide that your Turkish holiday just wouldn’t be complete without seeing these underground marvels, here are some tips to make your visit easier:
- Limit your descent to your “comfort level.” This visit should be about enjoyment, not endurance.
- Take necessary medication beforehand, or come prepared with medication.
- Explain your condition to your guide, or others in your group, so that they can be watchful and potential problem areas can be bypassed, if possible.
- Stay with your group. An accompanying few people can be a great reassurance.
- Get a map of the underground city (usually available at the entrance or in the bazaar) and orient yourself.
- Be aware of the directional arrows and the exit arrows. When you enter a chamber, note the way out.
- Go slowly and savor the experience; let other visitors pass ahead of you, and take your time.
The Cappadocian underground cities are unique tourist sites, featured in major land tours of Turkey. But if you opt out of visiting them due to health concerns, there are other things to do while you wait for your group. Not all the attractions are under the ground: tourist bazaars, carpet and kilim sellers, and interesting local architecture can be found nearby — and the flavor of Turkey can be had without setting a foot beneath the earth.
To learn more about this UNESCO World Heritage Site, see the article: Cappadocia Turkey: Cave Churches, Canyons and Underground Cities.
Jen L. Jones - Based in Canada, Jones writes on human rights, history,and the natural world. She focuses also on Turkish and Scottish travel and ...
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